Wow, Tokyo is an incredible city! This gateway to Japan welcomed us with open arms. It was a whirlwind trip packed with sites, flavors, sounds and experiences that can’t fully be recounted in this recap alone. So I’m starting my multi-installment Japan recap with Tokyo and highlighting some of my favorite moments and special hospitality touches along the way.

Tokyo is a study in contrasts. It’s old and new. It’s a bustling metropolis yet people are nearly silent while walking down the street or taking the train. The city sprawls across a vast area of land, but is incredibly dense with shops and restaurants from the basement up to the penthouse of high rise structures as far as the eye can see. Its culture is high tech and sleek and also has a deep respect for tradition. We spent a total of seven days in Tokyo, but could have easily spent 100 more. We could not get enough!

Night 1 – Shinjuku and Ramen

We stayed in Shinjuku for the first leg of the trip. The Hyatt Regency Tokyo was located on a quiet street, but just steps away from the action and energy of Shinjuku. There was also a train stop and a 7-11 right at the ground floor of the hotel, both of which were very convenient.

We dropped our bags and immediately headed out in search of Fu-Unji for ramen. This was our first encounter with a cash-only vending machine payment system. We were told that despite the high-tech nature of the city as a whole, the Japanese still very much value the exchange of tactile currency. We followed the lead of the others and punched in our order and then patiently, silently stood behind diners at the counter to await our turn for a seat. This place is no frills and all about the food. 10/10 a very strong start! 

We took a stroll through Omoide Yokocho which was touristy but quaint to see a myriad of tiny izakayas packed into a dense urban alley. The contrast of scale, from the towering neon to the claustraphobia-inducing 6-person micro restaurants and bars, was something to behold. There was so much to see, hear, smell, taste and experience at every turn.

Day 2 – Fish Market, Harajuku, Yoyogi Park, Cat Street

We headed out super early to the Tsukiji Outer Market to avoid the big crowds. We enjoyed sampling bites from various stalls and had our first matcha experience of the trip here.

Takeshita Street in the Harajuku district was an assault of the senses and with animal cafes, clothing stores, crepe stands and other oddities. We had a sweet run-in with two local students who, immediately recognizing us as tourists, asked to interview us for a school project. They inquired about our favorite Japanese cuisine we were hoping to eat while in town. I think they were surprised when the first thing we mentioned was curry. We posed for selfies and then headed off to the quieter neighborhood sections of the district which had some amazing clothing stores and cafes.

Nearby, Yoyogi Park was a peaceful respite in the center of this booming metropolis. Strolling under the canopy of tall trees was truly a peaceful experience. You could almost forget you were blocks from such an urban area. We made our way to Meiji Jingu to admire the ornate shrine and vintage sake barrels.

Later, we visited the Trunk (Hotel) Bar & Kushi Yakitori, a hip hotel just off of the famed Cat Street.

Day 3 – Minato – Nishiazabu – Azabudai Hills

By design, Team Lab Borderless had no prescribed pathway or floor plan, so we chose our own adventure, wandering from room to room and discovering new art and light delights along the way. Some of the installs were interactive and adjusted with our movements. It was a fun time! We booked this experience way ahead of time and then built our day around it. 

Afterwards, we wandered through Azabudai Hills, a posh and impeccable mall and had lunch at the food court. “Mall food court” may conjure up an image back home of less than stellar cuisine, but in Japan, the offerings are *elite*. Super high end feeling buffets and restaurants. We ended up at a super casual little cafe called Pelican Cafe serving katsu sandos which were delightful. 

Don’t waste time and money in lines for pricey sky views. For the price of two cappuccinos, we relaxed in the beautiful Hills House Sky Room Cafe with a view of the entire city and a spectacular viewpoint of Tokyo Tower.

After a short rest back at the hotel, we headed out to dinner at Butagumi for the tonkatsu curry of our dreams. This was easily one of my favorite meals of the trip. They provide a whole menu of pork options, from mild to extra porky. Every flavor was incredible. As with many restaurants and shops in Japan, they specialize in one thing and have mastered it to the point of perfection.

After dinner, we stumbled upon THESE right next door, a tiny library-inspired bar. We asked for the cocktail menu and, rather than getting a paper or digital menu, we were pointed toward a brimming fruit bowl of seasonable goodies. We were instructed to choose a few ingredients that looked good and the bartender then created a bespoke cocktail for each of us. So delicious and charming! This was a unique service touch I really appreciated.

We capped off the evening at Golden Gai, another sort of touristy alley filled with tiny bars, but we really enjoyed it. When I tell you we basically climbed a ladder to get up to the tiiiny jazz bar, I am not exaggerating. The mini establishment was run by the bar keep/owner who was also the DJ and cook. After mixing our cocktail — Japanese highballs all around — he prepared traditional snacks for us and then we chatted music. A total vibe.

Day 4 – Dodgers World Series – Shopping in Daikanyama – Vinyl Bar

We woke early and headed to a local pub to watch Game 1 of the Dodgers/Yankees world series. Vacation rules state that it’s perfectly acceptable to drink beer and eat fries at 9am and that’s exactly what we did. Dodger fever is palpable in Japan and we were delighted to watch the game with so many diehard local fans. Getting to celebrate the walk-off grand slam and Game 1 win together is a moment I’ll never forget. While the Japanese seem at first to be rather reserved, we had the joy of experiencing their very warm, welcoming, playful side everywhere we went. Their warmth made it easy to make friends along the way.

After the game, we headed to the Daikanyama area of town which felt like an authentic taste of local life. Lowkey cafes and shops were peppered throughout residential streets. My sites were set on Yumiko Iihoshi Porcelain where we picked up a handful of treasures including a set of delicate porcelain cups that we drink our cortados from every morning to this day! We also visited a variety of shops as well as Tsutaya Bookstore which is defintey worth a visit.

Afternoon snack involved our first taiyaki fish treat followed by dinner at Tempura Azabu Yokota. So delish!

We capped off the night by hitting up the Shimo-Kitazawa neighborhood to visit their vinyl bars. Little Soul Cafe was recommend by friends and was perfectly lowkey and brimming with good vibes.

Days 5-10 – Kyoto, Kinosakionsen, Osaka

Recaps of these areas are coming soon!

Days 11 -13 – Ginza

Our final days in Tokyo were spent in Ginza, a ritzy area of town with luxury shopping, but which is also brimming with casual izakayas and bars as far as the eye can see along the train lines. Here are a few of the highlightes and special hospitality touches we loved.

Cafe de L’ambre elevates coffee-making and drinking to an art form. Sitting, relaxing and savoring is encouraged over rushing out the door with a to-go cup.

At Sushi Ya, we enjoyed an incredible multi-course omakase. The chef took such great care and attention to every detail of the meal. The food was simple and impeccable. The hand crafted ceramics each course was served on only added to the magic of the meal.

I’m a huge Muji fan (.38 gel ink balllpoint pens for life!) and I couldn’t pass up the chance to visit the flagship in Ginza. All the little things for organizing, office, home goods, clothing and travel gear were here. It’s quality affordable Japanese minimalism at its finest! If you’re a stationery lover, Itoya is also a must-see. Imagine seven floors of nothing but specialty paper, pens, office accessories and gifts. Heaven!

The next morning, we had a taste for Japanese breakfast. Ginza Choshoku Lab inside HOTEL MUSSE  was a delicious and fun buffet experience. It was a feast for the eyes as well as our stomachs.

Shiseido Parlor Gift Shop – The Japanese take gift wrapping to another level. I enjoyed this sweets shop, but what might have been even better were their gift sets and perfectly wrapped packages. Rushing through the purchasing process is not a thing here. Instead, the exchange is treated like a ritual. Items are chosen, funds are exchanged, treasures are meticulously packaged with great care and are handed off with a final respectful bow. I so appreciated the extra step and it made me appreciate the items we purchased even more. 

GinzaMON Utsuwa Gallery – This was our final shopping stop to pick up a few final ceramics for family. We realized only when we arrived that it was just about to close. Rather than rushing us through, the sweet shop owner stayed with us, made recommendations and kept the shop open late to allow us to make our purchases. And again, everything was carefully packaged up for safe traveling back home. This shop is a must-visit in Ginza! We went home with some truly remarkable ceramic pieces.

This was the trip of a lifetime and while we saw a ton, we barely scratched the surface of this incredible country. We are hoping to head back in 2027 Ray’s 50th birthday where we’ll explore more of the countryside and of course pop into Tokyo…because we will never get enough of Tokyo!